Aguttes

Watches

« The world of watchmaking is of great richness, combining history, art, and technique. Over the centuries and through innovations, watches have adapted to our lifestyles. It is always a thrill to discover timepieces that have been carefully preserved for years. It’s a real pleasure to pass them on to new collectors who will write a new page in their history. »

— Claire Hofmann

Collectible Watches

In 2024, the Watches department achieved a result of 3 million euros and held the largest watch auction in France that year, featuring the Rolex Daytona “Paul Newman” ref. 6262 “Dark Chocolate Dial.” Through specialized prestige sales, we have built strong relationships with collectors and international enthusiasts of vintage, antique, and contemporary watches. At four annual events, our auctions highlight the most prestigious names in watchmaking, such as Patek Philippe, Rolex, Breguet, Audemars Piguet, Cartier, and many others.
Through the timepieces and collections entrusted to us, we are dedicated to telling the story of horology, as seen in the “Une histoire du temps” sale, which totaled 1.4 million euros and further expanded our network of buyers.
The department also benefits from the growing dynamism of the Luxury & Art de Vivre division, particularly in Automobiles, Wines, and Jewelry, where synergies are clear.

The watch auction market

In the world of watch auctions, Paris has joined renowned locations like Geneva and Hong Kong. The capital of luxury attracts a broad audience of collectors, and requests for appraisals are steadily increasing. Our auctions showcase the rarest and most prestigious names in the global watchmaking industry, such as Patek Philippe, Rolex, Breguet, Audemars Piguet, Breitling, and more. These brands, which represent 10% of the market in volume, command the highest bids at Maison Aguttes.

Over the years and through numerous auctions, the auction house Aguttes has built privileged relationships with collectors, watchmakers, and professionals in the art market. Our teams understand their preferences, the watches they seek, and the gaps they wish to fill. These timepieces are dispersed during Online Prestige sales, which offer excellent visibility. This auctions channel has opened the department to a new dynamic clientele of private buyers and high-level collectors. The Watches department also benefits from the powerful buyer network of the entire Luxury and Lifestyle division, particularly in collaboration with the Collectors’ Cars, Fine Wines and Jewelry departments, where synergies are evident. For example, iconic models with a strong masculine appeal have been featured in ‘La Vente Officielle’ organized alongside the Tour Auto. Recently, the collection ‘Une histoire du temps’ revealed to the world 80 wearable watches and clocks, tracing 500 years of watchmaking history. This auction totaled 1.47 million euros and further expanded the network of buyers.

Watchmaking Excellence in auction sales

The Aguttes auction house showcases vintage and sporty watches, including pieces of Haute Horlogerie and exceptional timepieces. The selection features the most prestigious names in luxury watchmaking, such as Patek Philippe, Rolex, Breguet, Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Omega, IWC, Universal Genève, Panerai, Cartier, Zenith, Piaget, and Breitling.

The department organizes thematic sales focused on horology, including pocket watches, chronographs, diving watches, complication watches, desk clocks, men’s and women’s wristwatches—whether vintage or modern, in gold or steel.

These auctions attract a wide range of buyers, including young collectors, seasoned enthusiasts, investors, business professionals, and industry experts. Watch collectors value the seriousness of our expertise and the transparency that are essential for purchasing. Our specialists carry out meticulous work to ensure the authentication and detailed description of your watches, including movement, hallmarks, serial numbers, and functionality. Our appraisals are complimentary and confidential.

 

The Great Names in Watchmaking & Their Iconic Models

Some models have played a key role in establishing the fame of the watchmaking houses mentioned above, such as the “Royal Oak”, recognizable by its octagonal bezel, designed by Gérald Genta for Audemars Piguet. Another example is the “Reverso”, created in 1931 by René Chauvot for Jaeger-LeCoultre, which was specifically designed for polo players, allowing them to protect their watch glass with a reversible mechanism.

Rolex watches continue to enjoy unrivaled success and regularly achieve record-breaking auction results. Throughout the 20th century, Rolex developed numerous iconic models. These include the Oyster, launched in 1926 as the world’s first waterproof watch; the GMT Master, designed in 1954 to equip Pan Am pilots; and the Comex Submariner and Comex Sea-Dweller, created for professional divers exploring great depths.

This unparalleled watchmaking expertise has made these models highly sought after by enthusiasts and collectors of luxury timepieces

 

Good to Know: Our Collectible watches’ department organizes 8 “Online Prestige” sales per year. Check out our auction calendar for upcoming events.

Our specialists are at your disposal to evaluate your items and provide you with professional expertise, along with tailored advice for sales or investment opportunities. Appraisals are free and confidential, available by appointment. You can also submit your appraisal requests by filling out the online form.

Our experts and specialists travel across France and Europe, working in collaboration with our representative offices to provide complimentary watch and timepiece valuations in Lyon, Aix-en-Provence, Brussels, and Geneva. Learn more about our offices.

The team is here to assist you in researching, selling, or acquiring a unique piece through private sales, conducted with the utmost discretion. Our auctioneers are also available to conduct inventories of your assets and collections for division or sale purposes

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    MONTRES DE COLLECTION
    01/07/2025
    MONTRES DE COLLECTION

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    Information

    Why Aguttes?

    Expertise

    More than 14 specialized departments

    Personalized accompaniment

    Large and agile organization for the management of "top lots" and particular collections

    International records

    More than 60% of buyers are foreign

    Culture of excellence

    More than 150 lots sold at more than 100 000€ in 2022

    Frequency of sales

    4 annual auctions by specialty

    The press speaks about it

    Frequently asked questions

    Prestigious companies like Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Omega are considered safe investments. Their popularity reflects the exceptional craftsmanship of these watchmaking houses. Highly sought after, most of their watches maintain a relatively stable value in the auction market. Watches made of gold, platinum, or stainless steel from brands like Vacheron Constantin and Cartier are also among the most desired models. Vintage watches from Breguet, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and Breitling are equally coveted by collectors. The watches with the highest value in the luxury watch and collectible watch market can fluctuate depending on demand, supply, and trends. However, here is a list of some watches that have historically fetched high prices at auctions and in the luxury watch market: – Rolex Daytona Paul Newman: Vintage models of this watch, worn by actor Paul Newman, are extremely sought after. – Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711: A highly prized sports watch from the famous Swiss brand, often in stainless steel. – Rolex Daytona “Rainbow”: A high-end version of the Daytona, adorned with colored gemstones, highly prized by collectors. – Patek Philippe Calatrava 5016A: A rare and complex watch, created for a charity auction. – Rolex Submariner “Comex”: Special editions bearing the logo of the Comex diving company are particularly sought after. – Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo”: The brand’s first stainless steel sports watch, very popular among collectors. – Richard Mille RM 56-02: An ultra-luxurious watch with a sapphire case, renowned for its technical innovation. – A. Lange & Söhne Grand Complication: An exceptional watch featuring complex horological complications. – F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain with Remontoir d’Égalité: Watches from this independent Swiss brand are highly appreciated for their top-notch craftsmanship. Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication: A bespoke watch featuring exceptional complications.
    When possible, it is recommended to sell the watch in its original box along with its papers. For older models, prices vary depending on the era and the model. Only an expert can analyze and provide an accurate appraisal of the watch. Their expertise is based on the watch’s condition, its mechanism, wear and tear, and scratches. The rarity and prestige of the brand also play a significant role. Prices can quickly soar if the watch is unique or produced in limited editions; the Paul Newman Daytona, James Bond Submariner, or Steve McQueen Explorer are examples of rare watches. These watches are often considered collectible items due to their rarity, history, or technical complexity. Their value can vary significantly depending on condition, age, and market demand. Therefore, if you own a pre-owned, recent, vintage, or antique watch that you wish to sell, we encourage you to fill out our appraisal form and send us detailed photographs.
    A watch collection requires careful selection to ensure variety and diversity of options. Here are several types of watches that could be excellent additions to enrich a collection: – Diving watch: A waterproof watch with a rotating bezel for water activity enthusiasts. – Classic dress watch: An elegant watch suited for formal occasions, with a gold or stainless steel case. – Chronograph: A watch with a chronograph function for precise time measurement. – Pilot’s watch: An aviator watch with exceptional readability and aviation-specific functions. – GMT watch: A watch that displays two time zones for frequent travelers. – Skeleton watch: A watch with an exposed movement, offering a fascinating glimpse into watchmaking. – Moonphase watch: A watch that shows the phases of the moon, adding a romantic and poetic touch. – Automatic sports watch: A rugged and durable watch designed for sports activities. – Vintage watch: A classic and historical piece, which could be a family heirloom or a sought-after retro model. – Smartwatch: A connected watch that offers modern features such as fitness tracking and smartphone notifications. By choosing watches that cover these categories, you can create a diversified collection that meets different occasions and preferences. Be sure to also consider a variety of brands, styles, and eras to add richness to your collection.